| Week Ending May 13th - Forest of Dean | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Last Saturday's newspaper had an interesting article on a hidden garden in Clifton - we live sorta in Clifton. We looked up the address and found that it was only two blocks away - straight up the hill. We had walked that way several times and couldn't imagine where they might have hidden a garden. The gardens would only be open for one afternoon from 2:00-4:00 on Sunday. So we went. Our first hint that this might be different was the queue at the entrance. The line at two o'clock on a Sunday afternoon was half a block long. The gate in a typical stonewall was old, weathered and unimpressive. A plaque on the wall informed us that the property belonged to the University of Bristol. Once inside the gate, we entered what looked like a nice public building that could have been a school or collage building. Only then did I realize that this had once been a private home, a very big private home. A glance out the windows showed a 10-15 acre park. Even today I can't figure out where and how they got that much space (the advantage of getting there early, I guess.). |
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| This was "Goldney Hall". The house was built in the early 1700s as the country home for a Bristol Merchant, Thomas Goldney. The Goldney"s were a Quaker family with business interests in banking, shipping, iron and brass. Ironically, this Quaker family (today's Quakers are pacifists) made most of their money financing Captain Woodes Roger's privateering raids against Spanish Treasure Ships | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Goldney family died out in 1796. The house was passed to cousins, bought by Lewis Fry in 1864, owned by the Wills family in 1922 and donated to the University in 1956. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The view from the Goldney House. Our flat is marked on the picture. Note the open farmland beyond the valley | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The grounds were very park like and could have been mistaken for a well-kept city park except for a couple of very unusual, but nice features: A tower (built in 1764) housed a steam engine driven pump to feed the fountains, a mock fortification, and a rotunda built in 1739. Especially exciting was a hidden grotto, a series of caves and tunnels, started in 1737. The walls of the grotto were lined with seashells, fossils, corals and semi-precious stones. The grotto took 27 years to complete. The prize of the garden was its view of the harbor and valley. Over the years the trees have grown up and obscured some of the view but it was still impressive. The very first question that anyone asks when we tell them that we are traveling about and seeing the countryside, is have you been to Bath? We decided to go to Bath on Monday. On Monday morning we looked out and the weather was rainy and gray - it really rained all day - we didn't go to Bath. Tuesday Nancy had scheduled to have her hair done. In talking to the clerks at the neighborhood store, she got some new information and changed her appointment to Thursday at the City College (it gets a little confusing sometimes - Bristol has 100,000 college students and at least a half a dozen colleges). Thursday she had her -hair done- by the college students with the instructor supervising. The color looks good and it's a little short, but will grow out. Note: Everyone here talks to us and is quick to offer up advice - so much for the sterotype of English reserve. Wednesday we met up with Ruth and did a day trip to see "bluebells". Bluebells appear to be a big deal here and I expected to see the hills covered with bluebells. Doesn't happen that way. The bluebells we saw grew under the trees in fairly open ground. They appeared in large patches but only when the conditions were right. Where they do grow, they cover the ground with a blue coating. It's very pretty. |
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| Wild Garlic Flowers - can be used in cooking and does smell like garlic | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Bluebells | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The white flower in the right hand photo is wild garlic. The flowers definitely smell like garlic and are used in cooking. Ruth said there is a teeny garlic bulb, but wasn't sure if it was edible or not. Ruth took us across the northernmost bridge at the River Severn and headed Northwest. Sometimes we were in Wales and sometimes we were in England. The line between follows the Wye River - at least for a while. Our destination was the "Forest of Dean." The topography here was completely different from the Midlands. Lots of steep hills and narrow valleys mostly covered with broadleaf and some evergreen trees. There were periodic rock outcroppings with the base rock appearing to be granite. We eventually ended in a park with an overlook into the Valley of the Wye. On the trail to the overlook appeared a substantial kiosk. The kiosk had souvenirs, ice cream and a kitchen with a nice menu. Since it was after noon, we had lunch. I had what was listed as a "Typical English Breakfast" - a poached egg, English-style bacon, two sausages, sliced tomatoes, baked beans with a sauce and a buttered baguette ? very substantial. We sat out in the patio area and enjoyed the views. Nancy had a BAM - a bacon and egg sandwich on a soft roll. Sort of like a large hamburger bun. BAMs also came with chicken (they were out), tuna or cheese |
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| With lunch safely tucked away, we continued up the hill to the lookout. It was not very far and not very steep. From this vantage point we could look down on the River Wye as it did a loop around our position. The viewpoint, Symond's Yat, had a geological marker showing it was 506 feet above sea level. The major attraction was a pair of nesting Peregrine falcons in a cave in an outcropping to rock. The docents had set up several telescopes so that we could snoop into the falcons' private lives. The eggs hatched a week ago and Nancy saw one little fluffy head, but the mom just sort of sat there. Ruth's driving style is unique. This area was her home ground - she had lived here for a while as a teenager - so as were driving she would say, "Oh! I didn't mean to go this way." With that being said, she would continue on the new road. As a result we had no idea where we went or how we got there. The countryside was lush and green, lots of bluebells under the trees, and a number of little towns sprinkled through the hills. Many of the little towns were old mining towns that Ruth claimed were pretty dull. I have no feel for English houses. With my West Coast eyes, the houses are made of cut stone and brick and looked pretty grand (but small) to me. On the earthquake-prone West Coast, brick and stone are reserved for public buildings and really expensive homes. Thursday night we went to a local Shakespearian play, "As You Like It". The theater was in Clifton - straight up from here with no direct bus route - we walked. The theater was quite nice - could have used some air-conditioning - with seating for about 300 people in "stadium seating". This was a college performance and except for fairly young people being cast as the next older generation with no make-up to help the illusion, the casting was quite good. The cast had strong players and we enjoyed the performance. The singing done by some of the cast was in character and fit the play. I had originally planned to do the whole week on this page, but Friday we went to Bath and that deserves a whole page on its own. Cheerio |
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